Friday, February 6, 2015

Coat, done before winter is over!

Back in early November I had a few hours of free time. In that three hour window I cut out and finished the outer shell of a muslin of a new coat I wanted to make for myself. It was really supposed to be a muslin so I could practice with the pattern and decide what I really wanted to do with it. But it turned out great and the perfect weight for Southern winter weather so I will hang on to it as is.

I used the Colette Patterns Lady Grey. Which is an "advanced" level pattern and is sized 0 - 18.

We all know I am not a tiny person and I was looking for something I could get my arms into even with a sweater on, so I cut a size 18. Now keep in mind this is a "regular" 18 and not plus. I would never in a store buy a ready to wear 18. It would be too big.

My size is in the canyon that lives between "regular" and plus. If you are not someone who has experienced this you do not know that between a regular 14 and a 14W (aka plus) there is about a 1.5 - 2 inch difference. The interesting thing about this is that between "regular" sizes there is 1/4 to 1/2 inch difference in the size. More about this in my next post, where I will really show you something that will illustrate this difference.

This is a lovely pattern. I made very few adjustments. The shoulders fit great which almost never happens, so I have to say that Colette has won me over with this pattern. I had a less pleasing experience with another of their patterns a few years ago. I made their Crepe dress in 2011 with less than stellar results. But I have high standards and made a few poor choices.

The only thing I would really change if I made this coat again is, I would make the collar a little different shape. Otherwise it is nice right from the pattern.

The back of the collar is the one piece that I think
is not upsized enough to go with the larger size.
Next time I would make it longer.

The outer is a red aztec sort of print. It is a heavy jersey that I inherited from a friend. I made this coat for about $10 worth of interfacing, thread and buttons, plus the cost of the pattern and it is still much less and a much better fit than I could achieve with something store bought.

In this picture it is lined and top stitched and about 95% ready to be worn. Then it sat again for a couple of weeks while I debated buttons and the belt.

I have a "new" machine and I have a 1964 Kenmore. The new machine used to do great button holes but it has been abused and the button hole it sews is no longer as pretty as I would like. I have had this old Kenmore up and running for about a year now and had not yet figured out how the button-holer worked. So I decided if I was going to put buttons on my lovely coat I had to figure it out. I was terrified of it. Which was silly because it took me about 7 minutes to figure it out and it makes beautiful button holes with ease.

I considered a black rhinestone button but somehow it was not right. 

I ended up settling on these large black vintage buttons. 

The belt is the same fabric as the outer shell on one side and the lining on the reverse.  
I ended up sewing the belt in place rather then belt loops. 
This is because the fabric is jersey and 
it would get all scrunched up if I did not sew it in place. 

I was so excited when I finished I tried to take a picture of myself in it. 

Fortunately a kind mom friend at school pick up was willing to take a picture for me. If you will notice the collar does not come quite far enough forward. But the front lapels are so lovely it may not even need that back collar piece? Also I must have short arms because the patter says 3/4 sleeves and I did not make and adjustments and the sleeves are full sleeves on me.

I am contemplating making a rain version. But I have other projects in line ahead of that. My next post will be about sizing! Why nothing store bought fits me and the changes I almost always have to make to patterns.

Have a great weekend!!!
Peace Out - Chrissy   

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